Peak-of-the-season spring strawberries
{Lush, fragrant, intensely sweet yet pleasantly acidic}
In the world of produce, nothing disappoints more than a supermarket strawberry that looks great on the outside but has nothing but a white woody core, a hard, almost crunchy unyielding texture and utterly flavorless and wan. But at the farmer’s markets, your chances of finding a berry that tastes like a strawberry, with its balance of sweetness and acidity, its haunting perfume and mouth-filling flavor, are substantially increased. Taste before you buy though because even at the farmer’s markets looks may be deceiving.
In California, where I’m blessed to live, varieties abound many grown in and around Oxnard, roughly an hour’s drive north of Los Angeles, from the ever reliable Chandlers and Sequoias to the coastal grown Gaviotas and Seascapes, with an occasional Albion and Camarosa found here and there. But beware, the berry’s flavor fades within a day after being picked (and even more so when refrigerated) so buy only what you can eat or quickly turn into jam, a supremely satisfying yet easy kitchen pursuit. All you will need is great fruit, granulated sugar, a heavy pot, a wooden spoon, a skimming spoon, a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and a bit of time.
But if you’re not ready to make jam, whip some heavy cream, lightly sugared, and spoon it generously over freshly sliced berries, or sandwich the berries and cream mixture between two just-out-of-the-oven shortcakes. (For shortcakes, see the recipe in the Tangerine Sorbet Shortcakes post on the site.)
Another idea: Whirl the jam until smooth and plop a generous spoonful of it into a tall glass filled with fresh lemonade (no need for additional sweetening). Add some ice, stir, and enjoy the delicate and refreshing balance of sweet and tart.
