Aprium crumble with pistachio ice cream
Yield: 4 to 6 generous servings
As we move into summer in earnest, stone fruits take up more and more of the display space at farmer’s markets and local chain grocery stores. But all stone fruit is not created equal, cultivated with the same loving attention to flavor and ripeness. So be sure to taste widely before you settle on which varieties you wish to turn into the simple rustic dessert given here. Whether you call it a crumble, buckle, Betty, grunt or cobbler, you won’t forget to call it “delicious.”
Keeping added sugar as low as possible, you need to use only fruits that are highly perfumed, with a balanced acidity and at their peak of flavor. Not counting baking time, the crumble should take you about a half hour to assemble, from fruit to streusel topping. Serve this one warm, about a half hour out of the oven, topped with the best pistachio ice cream you can find (no food coloring should appear in the ingredients list on the label). Or on the day before you wish to serve the crumble, make your own, bringing 2 cups of whole milk to just under the boil with about 1/2 cup of crushed, bright green unsalted, roasted pistachios. Add that milk, once well infused with the pistachio flavor, into a mixture of egg yolks from 6 large eggs (approx. 4 ounces) and 1/2 c. (approx. 3-1/2 ounces) granulated sugar and then cook the mixture stirring gently over medium heat until it reaches 180 degrees F. (Don’t overcook or the egg yolks will curdle). Pass through a fine sieve and then cool over an ice bath. Once the mixture is cold, add 1 cup (8 ounces) heavy cream, a pinch of salt, a light flavoring of real vanilla extract (1 t.) and a hint of almond extract (a drop or two) and freeze in an ice cream machine until just beginning to thicken. Then, at that point, add in a generous handful of lightly roasted pistachio nuts (about 1/2 c.) and process until mixed. Remove the mixture to a container, cover it, place in the freezer, and allow the flavors to ripen and mellow overnight.
To begin:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
Generously coat the inside of a two-quart capacity ovenproof baking pan with unsalted butter (approximately 2 T.) and set aside.
For the crumble topping:
1/4 c. (approximately 1 ounce) toasted wheat germ
1/2 c. (approximately 1-1/2 ounces) uncooked rolled oats
3/4 c. (generous 4 ounces) brown sugar
Generous 1-1/2 c. (approximately 7 ounces) all-purpose flour
1/2 t. ground cinnamon
Pinch salt
2-1/2 sticks (10 oz.) unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
In the bowl of an electric mixer outfitted with the paddle attachment, mix all of the ingredients together until the mixture is no longer dry and powdery. It should look pebbly but do not mix to a paste.
For the fruit:
2 lbs. fresh apriums (or other stone fruit such as pluots, plumcots, plums, nectarines, or a combination as you wish), washed and dried, halved and pitted
1-1/2 c. (approximately 8 oz.) granulated sugar
1 t. ground cinnamon
A drop or two of almond extract (optional)
Pinch salt
1/4 cup (generous ounce) all-purpose flour
For coating the baking dish: 2 T. unsalted butter
Slice the fruit into chunky wedges and gently combine with the next five ingredients. Turn the mixture into the prepared baking dish. Top evenly with the crumble mixture and bake on a sheet pan in the preheated oven for approximately 40 minutes, or until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is golden brown. Serve while warm with a scoop of pistachio ice cream.
