Robert Wemischner

Yield: approximately 1 lb. or 48 pieces, each 1/2 inch wide by 3 to 4 inches long

Preserving fruit in syrup is an old art dating back at least to the Roman times when it was recorded that whole quinces were preserved in concentrated grape juice or honey. When sugar instead of honey became the candying medium of choice is not known. It’s thought that sugarcane likely originated in the South Pacific, domesticated in New Guinea and then independently in Indonesia. But as early as 510 BC, the ancient Persians wrote about the process of turning the juice of sugar cane into syrup (probably made  from cane coming from India) and then crystallizing it into a dry coarse mixture. This early version was akin to relatively unrefined sweeteners such as the Indian jaggery and Mexican piloncillo used to the present day (made more than likely from cane brought by the Spanish who grew it by the 15th century). 

More sugar trivia: As early as the 4th century BC, a government official in India referred to five kinds of sugar including khanda, a word that probably led to the English word “candy.” And then there are references to sugar cane in 3rd century China where Indian knowledge of the sweet grass later spread. Speaking of China, wherever Buddhism took hold, so did the cultivation of sugar cane, thought to have healing properties, and then religious uses. Fun fact: It was thought that when it came time to report each family’s deeds to the higher authorities, the Kitchen God ascended to heaven on sugar cane stalks, which hopefully led to a positive report. Even the ancients knew that sugar was not all bad, and when used in moderate quantities, a valuable addition to our pantry and dietary pleasure.

One of its early uses certainly has been in candying fruit and fruit peel, a method that’s worth preserving (pun intended). To candy peels to be consumed within a couple of days, all it requires is a bit of patience, sugar, water and a small amount of an anticrystallizing agent such as corn syrup or invert sugar syrup. (For longer storage or fully conserved products, the procedure gets more complicated as the peel needs to be boiled over a period of days in syrups of gradually increasing concentrations of sugar to eliminate any chance of bacteria forming and spoiling the fruit.) However, for semi-candying or what is called demi- or semi-confited peel (See recipe below), though, the process is satisfyingly simple and yields spectacularly flavorful results if followed carefully. Here’s how to do it.

2  pomelos (gross weight approximately 26 -32 ounces, each)

Water to blanch the peel before candying, which removes the bitterness

1 lb. (generous 2 cups) granulated sugar

1 lb. (16 oz.) Water

1 ounce (2 T.) light corn syrup

Coarse or granulated sugar to coat the candied peel, as needed

1 lb. melted tempered dark, milk or white chocolate, as desired, to coat the candied peel

First, cut a thin slice of the peel from both the stem and blossom ends of each fruit to ensure that the fruit stands firmly on your cutting surface. Then remove the remaining peel with a bit of the pith under the skin in wide slices (the thin layer of pith gives body and a pleasing texture to the resulting product).

Next bring water to boil in a heavy 3 quart saucepan. Place the peel into the boiling water and cook for 10 minutes. Pour out water, rinse the peel and then place the peel again into the pot filled with boiling water. Cook for an additional 10 minutes or so, or until the peel feels tender the touch (taste a bit of it to gauge how tender it actually is; if it’s still resistant to the bite, repeat the draining and boiling process, cooking the peel for another 10 minutes (taste again to check the texture). When tender, drain and rinse under cold water. Set the peel aside while you make the sugar syrup.

Place sugar, water and corn syrup into a heavy saucepan. Bring to the boil, making sure that the sugar is completely dissolved. Reduce the heat to low and add the peel. Simmer, without stirring, for about 30-40 minutes. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, and then retrieve the peel from the syrup. Place the peel onto a cooling rack set over a sheet pan to drain. Leave it to dry at room temperature for a couple of hours. Then, using a heavy chef’s knife, cut the peel as desired. I like to cut it into batons, each measuring approximately 1/2 inch wide by 3 to 4 inches long. Store covered at cool room temperature. Consume within a few days or freeze, well-wrapped, for up to one month.

To finish the peel, you have several options:

You can coat the strips with coarse or fine grained granulated sugar or dip them partway into tempered, melted high percentage (72-80% combined cocoa solids and cocoa butter content varieties get my vote) dark, dark milk or white chocolate. Finally, if you wish, you can dip the chocolate-coated strips into chopped toasted and lightly salted pistachios or other bits of toasted nuts. Allow to dry at room temperature and serve within a couple of days as a post-dessert sweet or anytime indulgence.