Robert Wemischner

Yield: 4 servings

The glories of citrus, vanilla and cream tremulously set by gelatin come together here in a delicate early winter dessert. Soft and nearly melting on the plate, this creamy, do-ahead sweet gets its distinctive flavor from the zest of a whole range of citrus fruits now in season: Cara Cara oranges with their pinkish-orange glow, Satsuma tangerines, Kishu clementines, Melogold grapefruit and blood oranges. Citrus and vanilla, the signature flavors of panettone (a traditional Italian sweet yeasted bread often studded with raisins and candied fruit) transform the humble and simple-to-make panna cotta into something special. Plan to make this dessert a day in advance to allow it to set. Thinly sliced and toasted panettone (you can make your own or purchase it) and filets of a rainbow of citrus fruits finish off the plate. Flavors pop in this ensemble of cream, crunch and juicy fruit–a great ending to a festive dinner.

For the panna cotta:

3 sheets gelatin (weighing approximately 6.75 grams) or 3 t. (approximately 6.75 grams) unflavored powdered gelatin

12 ounces (1-1/2 c.) heavy cream

2 T. zest of a variety of citrus (tangerines, blood oranges, grapefruit), grated

3 ounces (scant 1/2 c.) granulated sugar

4 ounces (1/2 c.) sour cream

1 t. real vanilla extract

If using sheet gelatin, place it into a bowl and place into a bowl with enough ice water to just cover. When it has softened, remove from the water, squeezing out excess and set aside. If using powdered gelatin, sprinkle it over 5 T. cold water and stir. Allow to sit until it expands and absorbs the water. Set aside.

In a small saucepan, heat cream and citrus zest until simmering. Remove from heat. Allow to stand for about 15 minutes. Then pour the mixture through a fine-meshed sieve, pressing on the zest to release as much flavor as possible into the cream. Discard the contents of the sieve and reheat the infused cream in a clean saucepan until boiling. Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the sugar,stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, continue to cook until the sugar is fully dissolved. Remove from the heat and stir in the bloomed gelatin and then sour cream and then stir until the gelatin has disappeared into the mixture and the sour cream is incorporated. Stir in vanilla extract and mix to combine. Pour the mixture through a fine-meshed sieve set over a bowl. Sieve again into a clean bowl and then ladle, or using a measuring cup with a pour spout, pour the mixture evenly into molds (silicone molds are available in many different shapes and capacities from www.demarle.com and are easy to unmold, yielding an attractive shape). Place molds onto a flat sheet pan and then place onto a perfectly flat surface in the freezer until firm. When fully frozen, remove from the molds and place one panna cotta on each of six serving plates. Refrigerate, lightly covered, to allow to thaw. (This can take about 2 hours or so). While the panna cottas are thawing, prepare the other elements of the dessert as follows.

For the citrus segments garnish:

1 Cara Cara orange*

1 Melogold or cocktail grapefruit*

1 to 2 tangerines (depending on size)*

1 blood orange*

*www.melissas.com is a great source for all of these citrus varieties in season

Peel by using a small sharp knife, following the contour of the fruit. Try not to remove any of the flesh as you remove the pith and peel. Over a bowl, remove the filets of citrus from their connective membrane by making a cut adjacent to the membrane toward the center of the fruit and then make a second cut from the center outward. Continue this process until all of the citrus filets have been removed from the fruit. Save any juice that collects as you remove the filets from each citrus fruit.

For the panettone croute garnish:

Using a sharp serrated knife, slice the panettone into four very thin pieces, measuring roughly 4″ by 3″. Place on a cookie sheet and bake in a preheated 350 degree F. oven for about 10 minutes, or until lightly browned and crisp. Remove from the oven and set aside.

To serve:

Garnish each panna cotta with a variety of citrus filets and one thin croute of the panettone. As desired, carefully spoon fresh citrus juice reserved from above around the base of the panna cotta (or as shown in the photograph, into the indentation at the top center of the panna cotta. If you use the kind of silicone mold which I did, the dessert will appear somewhat like a sunny side-up egg, a bit of visual irony in a custardy-textured dessert that has no egg whatsoever). Serve immediately.