Grapes Three Ways
Serves 4. Note: This recipe may be doubled, if desired, to yield more servings.
The experience of biting into a crisp, cool grape recently harvested is one of the distinctive pleasures of fall. Whether you choose the green, pink, red, purple or tiny Champagne variety (by the way, these are misnamed since they are actually fresh Zante varieties that are dried and sold as currants and are not used in making of champagne at all), you will be rewarded with that fresh burst of juice ranging from downright tart to candy sweet. And beyond eating grapes out of hand, there are other delicious ways to use them such as in this light but satisfying composed dessert, a symphony of textures. Here is one where grapes are used in three forms: first, in the bottled juice which is the basis for a lightly set, tremulous gelee; second, in champagne form, where the juice has been fermented and then frothed here into a zabaglione-like (sabayon) creamy, slightly gelled custard, and finally, frozen, in the form of tiny Champagne grapes which are worth seeking out in markets, generally through the month of September. Served with a crunchy, sandy textured shortbread, this dessert is easy to make ahead and hits the spot as summer rapidly turns to fall, as the array at the farmers markets turns from fruits with stones to those seasonal varieties with pits and seeds—apples, pears and, of course, grapes.
Here’s how to make Grapes Three Ways.
Use four 3 ounce-capacity molds. Silicone molds seem to work best here but if unavailable, anything from foil containers to porcelain ramekins will work. The challenge is to unmold the dessert keeping it intact so using something flexible like a silicone mold makes the job easier. In fact, I like to freeze the layered dessert for easier removal and then once plated, it’s a good idea to allow the dessert to “warm up” a bit in the refrigerator before serving.
Into a container with a tight fitting lid, place four generous bunches of champagne grapes, weighing about 2 ounces each, into the freezer. Now make the white grape juice gelee layer as follows.
3 sheets of gelatin (6 grams) OR 3 teaspoons powdered unflavored gelatin
6 ounces white grape juice (bottled, no processed sugar added variety is best here)
If using sheet gelatin, place the sheets into a small bowl and cover them with ice water. Allow to stand until softened. Once softened, squeeze out excess water from the gelatin and set aside.
If using powdered gelatin, place the powder in to a small bowl and add 2-1/2 T. water to it. Stir so that the gelatin absorbs the water evenly. then place the hydrated gelatin powder over a water bath, stirring until the mixture is perfectly clear.
In the meantime, heat the grape juice to the boil. Add the bloomed sheet or powdered gelatin to the juice and stir until completely dissolved. Allow to cool to room temperature and then divide the mixture evenly into the molds. Place on a level shelf in the refrigerator to set completely, about one hour.
Now make the champagne custard as follows:
1 large egg (approximately 1.67 ounces in total)
Generous 1/8 cup (scant 1 ounce) granulated sugar
1/2 c. (4 ounces) dry champagne
1 sheets of gelatin (3 grams) or 1 t. powdered unflavored gelatin
Soak the gelatin sheets in ice water until softened. When softened, remove from the water and squeeze out excess water. Set aside.
If using powdered gelatin, place it into a small bowl and add 1 T. cold water. Stir to dissolve and set aside.
In a medium sized stainless steel bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar and champagne. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (the water should not touch the bottom of the bowl) and whisk constantly until the mixture reaches 180 degrees F. and coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and immediately add the bloomed gelatin, stirring to dissolve completely. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature and divide it evenly over the set white grape juice gelee layer already in the molds. Return the molds to a level shelf in the refrigerator to set, about one hour more.
In the meantime, make the shortbread dough and bake. Note that you will have approximately 16 pieces of shortbread, allowing for a generous amount of surplus (it keeps, it’s addicting and it won’t last, believe me) after you have served the four desserts.
Place an oven rack halfway up from the bottom of the oven and then preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
1-2/3 c. (6 ounces) all purpose flour
1/3 c. (2-2/3 ounces) granulated sugar
3/4 cup (6 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1 inch pieces
1 t. salt
Optional: Granulated sugar to sprinkle on top of the shortbread after baking
Spray a 9 or 10 inch round tart pan with removable bottom with aerosolized pan coating and set aside.
Place all ingredients into the bowl of a food processor outfitted with the steel knife attachment. Pulse until the mixture is the texture of coarse crumbs. Do not overprocess. Pour into the prepared pan and press to compact the mixture into an even layer. Chill briefly and then prick all over with the tines of a fork. Place the pan onto a heavy baking sheet and bake for approximately 35 minutes, or until lightly golden brown. Remove from the oven and, using a small sharp knife, immediately score the shortbread into sixteen even wedges. Sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar, if desired. Allow to cool and then remove from the pan. Store in an airtight container.
To serve the desserts:
If you have not frozen the desserts, unmolded them while frozen and placed the plates into the refrigerator to “warm up” a bit as suggested above, then now dip the molds briefly into very hot water for about 20 seconds. Invert onto plates. Garnish with the frozen champagne grapes and a piece of shortbread. Serve immediately.
