Robert Wemischner

Yield: Serves 4, with enough extra biscotti to last a few days

Citrus curd is a miraculous bit of kitchen alchemy. With no starch to mask the flavors of the citrus juice in question (here fragrant, bright yellow skinned Meyer lemons are used), this tremulous custard serves as the basis for a highly satisfying dessert in a glass. 

Cooked over a water bath, and comprised of only five ingredients (citrus juice and zest, sugar, whole eggs and butter), the curd is made simply by cooking the quartet of ingredients together in a stainless steel bowl over a simmering water bath. Each ingredient has an important role to play. The sugar raises the temperature at which the eggs’ protein sets. The acidity of the lemon juice also aids in coagulating the protein of the eggs and the butter rounds out flavor and imparts a melt-in-the-mouth texture to the curd. Here, the curd is further enriched yet paradoxically lightened with a billow of unsweetened softly whipped cream. And to complex the flavor experience further, this spoon sweet boasts an anchoring bottom layer of intensely coffee flavored gelee. A bit of unsweetened softly whipped cream adorns the top of the dessert. And as a final touch, cream meets crunch in the form of Italian coffee bean biscotti which are served on the side, ready for dipping into the mousseline. Alternating a bit of biscotti with a spoonful of mousseline makes the eating that much more pleasurable.

By the way, the lemon and coffee combination gets a bit of inspiration from the disputed, perhaps even, apocryphal tradition of serving espresso in cups whose rims were rubbed with lemon peel, not as a flavoring for the coffee, but to eradicate any germs lurking on the communal vessels widely shared by immigrant Italians as they traveled by ship to the States.  

Note: If Meyer lemons are unavailable, substitute the standard variety. In this case, you may wish to increase the sugar in the curd by an ounce or two.

 

For the mousseline:

6 ounces whole eggs

3 ounces sieved Meyer lemon juice

1 t. grated Meyer lemon zest

3 ounces granulated sugar

4 ounces unsalted butter

Place all ingredients in a stainless steel bowl. Set the bowl over a saucepan with simmering water that reaches just under the bottom of the bowl. Over medium heat, whisk the mixture constantly until it thickens, scraping the sides of the bowl so that all of the mixture cooks evenly. When thickened, immediately pour it through a fine meshed sieved, set over a bowl. Cool over ice and then place the mixture, covered, into the refrigerator for about 1 hour, or until chilled thoroughly.

For the whipped cream, used to lighten the curd and for garnish:

6 oz. heavy cream

Using a whisk, whip the cream to soft peaks. Fold two thirds of the whipped cream gently into the chilled lemon curd mixture and refrigerate until ready to serve the dessert. Reserve the remaining whipped cream to spoon on top of the each dessert.

For the coffee gelee:

15 grams (approximately 1/2 ounce) espresso beans, freshly roasted and freshly ground

4 ounces water

1 ounce granulated sugar

Pinch salt

1 sheet (3 grams) gelatin or 1 t. powdered unflavored gelatin

Place the sheet of gelatin into a small bowl and cover with cold water. Allow stand until the gelatin has softened. This is called “blooming” the gelatin. Remove from the water, squeezing out any excess and place in to a small bowl.  (Note: If using powdered gelatin, sprinkle it into a small heatproof bowl in approximately three times the amount of cold water. Then place the bowl over hot water; stir until dissolved. Once dissolved, then proceed with the recipe as follows.)

Bring ground coffee and water to the boil. Pour through a fine-meshed sieve and add the sugar and salt, stirring to dissolve. Add the bloomed gelatin and stir to dissolve. Pour a thin layer of the gelee into the bottom of each serving glass or cup. Refrigerate on a level shelf until firm.

For the biscotti:

4 ounces unsalted butter, room temperature

4 ounces granulated sugar

2 large eggs (approximately 3.2 ounces in total)

1 t. vanilla extract

8 ounces all-purpose flour

1 t. baking powder

1/4 t. salt

1 ounce chocolate covered espresso beans (if unavailable, use 1/2 ounce chopped dark chocolate and 1/2 ounce well roasted espresso beans, coarsely chopped)

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt together and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer, outfitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until smooth and light. Add the eggs and vanilla and mix to blend. Add the sifted dry ingredients and mix just until the dries disappear. Fold in the chopped chocolate covered espresso beans (or chocolate and espresso). Remove from the bowl onto a lightly floured surface and divide the dough into four equal parts. Form each piece of dough into a log, measuring approximately 7 inches long by 1 inch wide. Place the logs onto a parchment- lined cookie sheet, leaving 2  to 3 inches space in between each log. Bake in a preheated 350 degree F. oven for approximately 25 minutes, or until lightly golden. Remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees F. Allow the logs to cool for about 10 minutes, and then, using a sharp serrated knife, cut the logs crosswise, or on the diagonal, into 1/4 inch wide slices. Place the cut biscotti onto a fine meshed cooling rack set on a sheet pan and return them to the oven for an additional 15 minutes or so, or until lightly golden and somehwat dry. Cool and store at room temperature in a container with a tight fitting lid.

Assembly:

1 t. grated lemon zest as garnish on top of each dessert

Pipe or spoon the mousseline mixture into each cup. Top with a dollop of the reserved whipped cream from above. Garnish the top of the whipped cream with the grated lemon zest and serve with a few biscotti on the side.