Robert Wemischner

Yield: generous entree sized portions for 5-6 persons

There must be as many versions of minestrone as there are home cooks making it, each one making the best use of what’s in season at the market. But whatever the version, most seem to share a couple of things in common: a generous array of vegetables and pasta.

Thanks to the warm hospitality of Chiara Planeta whose family owns some of the best wineries across the island, the version I enjoyed recently on a visit to the Planeta winery in Sambuca di Sicilia in Sicily, featured local artichokes, green cauliflower (which is turning up at farmers market now in California under the name of romanesco, with its beautiful spiraling pattern and bright chartreuse color), zucchini, carrots, potatoes and celery, some pasta but very little tomato. By being put into the soup raw, the pasta, cooked to its perfect al dente degree of doneness, lends its starch to thicken the soup just enough to coat a spoon. A small ladling of extra virgin olive oil and a grating of good cheese at the table (Parmigiano-Reggiano or any dry flavorful grating cheese such as Piave or Asiago would work here) top off the soup releasing their fragrance, seeming to invite whomever is over the bowl to dig in NOW and enjoy.

Here’s the recipe but don’t feel obligated to follow it to the letter. If there are other vegetables looking particularly fresh and vibrant at your market, feel free to substitute them for those called for in the recipe or simply add them to the mix. It’s fun to be Italian for the moment and follow your own independent culinary path to a delicious bowl of warmth and history. Whatever you choose to use, just be sure not to overcook it. The pasta and the vegetables should retain a bit of their pleasing bite and the soup should be served tongue-blisteringly hot.

Good quality extra virgin olive oil, to saute the vegetables

1 medium size onion, white or brown skinned

2 small to medium zucchini

2 celery stalks, peeled to remove tough strings

2 carrots, peeled

2 medium potatoes, peeled

5 fresh artichoke hearts and the very inner leaves which are the most tender ones, thinly sliced and then placed into water to which the juice of a large lemon has been added, to prevent browning of the artichoke (Remove the hairy choke and discard; save the remaining leaves and cook until tender and then dip them into a nice mustardy vinaigrette dressing)

1 medium sized head of romanesco (AKA green cauliflower; you may use the ordinary white cauliflower if the green one is unavailable in your area)

1-2 tablespoons of tomato sauce (fresh or canned)

1 small stalk of fresh fennel with its feathery fronds, finely chopped (save the rest, shaved paper thin, to serve in a great Sicilian salad with fresh oranges and black cured olives)

As needed: Olive oil, salt, black pepper, a pinch of hot pepper flakes or powder, as desired

Final garnishes:

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or other flavorful grating cheese of your choice and extra virgin olive oil to drizzle over the soup at the table

Rustic country bread, thinly sliced and lightly toasted (count 2 to 3 slices per person)

Cut all of the vegetables into roughly 1/2 inch cubes. Cover the bottom of a wide pan or casserole with the olive oil, and on low heat, gently fry the vegetables until barely tender. Add the tomato sauce and stir. Add enough water so that the vegetables are covered and there is an extra inch of water above the vegetables. Bring the liquid to the boil on low to medium heat and cook for another 15-20 minutes. Add the salt, freshly ground black pepper and hot pepper flakes or powder to taste. Add the pasta broken spaghetti or any short shape suitable) at this point and cook it only until it is still slightly al dente (resistant to the bite), as it will continue to cook on its own for a couple of minutes.

Note: This soup’s flavors mellow and marry overnight or even over two nights so plan ahead if you would like to make the soup in advance and truly serve it at its peak.